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Peak Mountain 3

Japanese Terraces

FA Hannibal, Montague '79
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This enjoyable route follows a dihedral system to the left of the standard

Pentapitch

and finishes 30 feet above the last pitch anchor of

Pentapitch

at a large dead tree with slings. (The dead tree is now gone but plenty of options for a gear belay in the same location.)

Pitch 1: First pitch of

Pentapitch

or

Neuromancer

to the big ledge.

Pitch 2: Start on the far left of the big ledge and climb up a left facing dihedral. This pitch can be broken into two. Belay on the giant ledge shared with

Pentapitch

. 160' 5.7.

Pitch 3: From the far left edge of the giant ledge start up a left facing dihedral, pull through a bulge or two and belay at a large pine tree on a ledge strewn with boulders. 100' 5.7.

Pitch 4: Continue up yet another left facing dihedral. This is the best pitch with nice hands jams and laybacks. Very exposed near the top as you make a few moves to the right over a roof. Belay at a large dead tree with slings. This is the same pitch as the last on

Coalpit Connection

. 120' 5.8+.

Descent: Rappel

Pentapitch

.

Location

This route starts from the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch of

Pentapitch

in a left facing dihedral.

Protection

Standard Rack, doubles on TCU's is nice, but not mandatory.