- Edit (TBD)
Description
This enjoyable route follows a dihedral system to the left of the standard
Pentapitch
and finishes 30 feet above the last pitch anchor of
Pentapitch
at a large dead tree with slings. (The dead tree is now gone but plenty of options for a gear belay in the same location.)
Pitch 1: First pitch of
Pentapitch
or
Neuromancer
to the big ledge.
Pitch 2: Start on the far left of the big ledge and climb up a left facing dihedral. This pitch can be broken into two. Belay on the giant ledge shared with
Pentapitch
. 160' 5.7.
Pitch 3: From the far left edge of the giant ledge start up a left facing dihedral, pull through a bulge or two and belay at a large pine tree on a ledge strewn with boulders. 100' 5.7.
Pitch 4: Continue up yet another left facing dihedral. This is the best pitch with nice hands jams and laybacks. Very exposed near the top as you make a few moves to the right over a roof. Belay at a large dead tree with slings. This is the same pitch as the last on
Coalpit Connection
. 120' 5.8+.
Descent: Rappel
Pentapitch
.
Location
This route starts from the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch of
Pentapitch
in a left facing dihedral.
Protection
Standard Rack, doubles on TCU's is nice, but not mandatory.
Routes in Pentapitch Area
- 6Japanese Terraces5.8Trad