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Peak Mountain 3

Fade to Black

FA JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fade To Black is one of the steepest routes in the amphitheater! Begin just right of the terrace where Dark Arts starts and scramble up to a low ledge. Here, a blue TCU or green Alien in a horizontal doesn't do much for pro, but will keep the next few wire placements from zippering. Slot a key, blind #5 BD overhead (currently fixed) and work past a funky low move and then into low angled, sporty left facing dihedral. Move up into a cruxy thin crack dihedral passing a solution pocket on left. Rest at a block and then move out the steep dihedral past four bolts via jams and long moves between jugs to a final crux reach to a fingerlock. Bouldery, pumpy, and classic!

Protection

Thin pro. Small wires and small cams down to #000, and four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed.