It's a Long Way to the Top

An enjoyable, mostly moderate route with the crux at the top consisting of two or three pretty hard moves on tiny, sharp holds.

Andy's start: Start below the first bolt and make several bouldery, insecure moves through the second bolt. Mid 5.11.

What everybody else does: Stand on the boulder immediately uphill, use some jugs and the obvious rail and surf right, avoiding the undercut, slopey, madness. 5.9-5.10a or so.

After the second bolt continue upwards making moderate moves through occasionally broken, but mostly solid rock. Slings are useful (but not required) at two bolts to manage rope drag (4th and 8th, if I remember correctly).

Eventually, you'll come to the tenth bolt. At this point, branching right takes you into

If You Wanna Rock N' Roll

. Instead, follow the next four bolts straight up through the crux, and finish on the chains slightly right of the bolt line.

Heading up hill you'll pass a large roof on the right with several bolted lines through it (and at the time of this writing, some brightly painted graffiti near the ground).

Just past this roof on the wall on the right you'll see a couple of bolted lines. This line heads more-or-less straight up, and shares the first ten bolts with

If You Wanna Rock N' Roll

.

14 bolts, chain anchors.