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Peak Mountain 3

StrikeSlip

FA Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts next to left facing corner, 15 feet right of The Three Hour Arete. Clean, bolt protected granite slab and edge climbing leads to a hand sized crack. Step left to a thin crack. Step left across an exposed slab, clip a bolt and pull devious 5.9 bulge to a bolted anchor.

P2 continues up a bolted slab, to finger crack. Continue up and right, to easy climbing in a blocky crack. Bolted belay left of the crack. (Can combine P1 and P2) A better variation clips the first two bolts on the slab, then heads up and slightly right to the bulge on Three Hour Arete. (5.8)

P3 starts up a lieback flake (gear). Step right, continue up to a bolted face crux series of moves to easier ground. Move left to a bolted belay (or continue up P4) 5.9

P4 From the sloping ledge, move up the steep, featured crack to a bolted anchor.

Gear: Doubles to #3 camalot. 5.8

Descent: 4 raps down the route with a single 70m OR 5 raps with a 60 m (first rap is a short rap to the top anchor of 3 Hour Arete)

Location

Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s

0.6 miles up the road from Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.

Walk on old mining road, to use trail.

Short Class 3 to base of cliff.

10 minutes.

Protection

5 quickdraws. Gear: small - #3 camalot