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Peak Mountain 3

Diagonal

FA S. Kimball, R. Joseph, G. Sapp, or C. Luebben
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is the most popular on Combat and is the easiest to find. When you reach the base via the trail, you will most likely be right at Diagonal or just below it. It is the left-facing corner with the crack going up diagonally. You will need TWO ROPES to rappel from either belay station. This route can be done in either two or three pitches.

Pitch 1: Follow the left leaning crack through some great finger jams and sketchy foot moves. The pro here is good if you have small enough cams. Go past small tree and continue around a hump following the diagonal line. Two-bolt belay is about another 30 feet. (Another pitch could be added here to reduce rope drag... continue to the bottom corner of the roof, about 20 feet, and set up a belay at the fixed pin and with some stoppers. I didn't think that this was necessary.)

Pitch 2: Follow the diagonal line up to the roof. Traverse right underneath it and up into the overhanging flake. The flake widens up into a fist jam, so larger pro is needed. At the top of the flake, pull over it onto the face and continue up this easy section to a two-bolt belay. Double-rope rappel from here to your LAST belay station... not to the tree that looks like you might be able to reach, because you won't! Then again double-rope rappel to the ground from the bolts at your 1st belay station.

This is an awesome climb and is definitely worth doing if you are at Combat.

Protection

Pro for the first pitch will consist mostly of wired stoppers and small cams and TCUs (under 1"). However, if you continue on to pitch 2, you will need a couple of #2 Camalots to protect the fist jam in the overhanging flake.