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MapDescription
This rock lost a big chunk towards the top in the last number of years and has been bolted as a sport climb since early 2020.
From the main entrance area with Fools Gold and Indian Joe, go left down the creek and hang a right before the creek drops off. Scramble over and down to get to the start of the climb.
Climb slab up three bolts to just below a bulge. From there you work up and onto the triangle shaped face to finish with new mussy hooks.
Shoelace Joe V4 is a variation start of the route, best on top rope.
Protection
Five bolts lead up to a set of mussy hooks.
For a better belay, you might considering removing the first two draws after reaching the third bolt and belaying below it.
Routes in Cleavage Rock
- 8West face of Northwest Rock Roof Problem5.11bSport