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MapDescription
Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.
I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.
Protection
3-4 bolts, chains at the top.
Routes in Nip and Tuck
- 25Mr. Spiffy5.13aSport