West Point Crack

Part of a large flake on the South Gateway Rock, it forms into a separate column near the top.

P1. The start is tricky, on a rough overhang. The old drilled pins have been replaced with 3 modern bolts. There is a thin belay stance about halfway up the length of the column. 50', 5.7.

P2. Ascend the crack that becomes a chimney passing 2 drilled pins. The best part is after you finish the chimney section and end the second pitch by pulling left onto the top of the column. The view is awesome, and well worth the effort. 95', 5.7+.

P3. To top out, you step across from the flake to the right just below a drilled pin. This move has become more difficult as the rock eroded. Climb past a drilled angle to a finishing groove. It is kind of scary and hard up there, so it's not done as often. Belay to the south on a ledge system behind the main wall. Scramble south down the big gully to the end of South Gateway to get off.

Reddish colored stone prevails on this climb.

AW

There are 3 rusty pitons (now replaced with modern bolts) total on the first pitch to a 2 bolt anchor with Metolius rap hangers (

warning, these may be sharp due to toproping through them

). For pitch 2, take medium to large hexes and Friends to supplement the 2 drilled pins. The anchor is a 2 bolt anchor with chains (for a

2 rope

rappel off the back of the flake). Also, a couple of Big Bros are helpful near the top. There is a drilled pin on P3. There are pitons on the top of the column for an anchor once you're there. The rappel is tricky unless you have two ropes.

You can rappel of P1 with one rope.

Beware that it is very difficult to pull your ropes if you try to rappel after P2 to the P1 anchors!