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Peak Mountain 3

"V" The Final Battle

FA Matt Hill & Mark Ronca 1996. FFA: 2004 Joey Vulpis & Chrissy Licata
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Description

Another Mark Ronca and Matt Hill classic! I climbed this route, traditional not aid, in 2004 and the rating was a bit slacked so I bumped it up to 5.11d. Great route and Ronca stated that he hoped someone would eventually free it!

Pitch 1: Follow the first pitch of ‘Colorado’ to the large ledge and climb through the overhangs above. Step right to another ledge. Belay here.

Pitch 2: Exit up toward a left-facing arete under a roof. Climb right around the arete to a horizontal then up to the face. You can belay below a steep face below the left blocks.

Pitch 3: Exit left and then up to an overhang system. This is the aid section if you care to ascend in that fashion (knifeblades and small lost arrows). The free moves are obvious if you hang out and scope the moves. I got this on my second try. Use the far left, thin crack and small right and mid footholds. Continue past the roof system and through a large v-notch in the upper roof to the top of the cliff.

Protection

Standard gap rack: Small to medium cams, 2 large cams, set of stoppers, few small tri-cams. Add some sky hook and a grapple for the crux section if you can't pull the 3 moves or aid in micro-nuts or TCU's.