An (Icefield) Pirates Life

This climb provides excellent crack climbing to gain the SE Ridge, avoiding the typical bowling alley choss chute that is the normal way to gain the ridge.p1. 40 m, multiple variations including splitter .75 cracks, wide laybacks to squeeze chimney, .3s in a corner to perfect hands pulling a lip to a lower angle scree slope. Awesome!p2. 5th class scrambling past multiple ledges and slabs angling toward a large tower, going left around it or tunneling through from the right. p3. 15 m, Belay on a perfect ledge at the base of a left facing corner. Climb the steep varied cracks that form between protruding fins of rock. Once you mantle, 4th class climbing will get you to the SE Ridge. Rappel the route. 

Route starts on the lighter band of rock on the right shoulder of the Thumb, directly to the right of the large, ominous right facing corner/chimney system also on the shoulder. Descend into the bergschrund where possible, and climb out. 

sr to 3" or 4", one variation involves a 5" crack where slipping off would result in a fall onto or below the bergschrund if not protected by a new BD 4