The Golden Hammer

P1. Climb the first two pitches of

Solid Gold

in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.

P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of

Spun Gold

, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.

P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.

P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the

Spun Gold

anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.

There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the

Spun Gold

anchor to the anchor on the

Playin' Hooky

slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.

A suggestion from a MP.com user: it is also possible to walk off to the north and wrap east around the ridge line to pick up the descent gully for

Playin' Hooky

/

Black Gold

. This walkoff is quicker than rapping the route and avoids congestion at the "large ledge" on a busy day.

About 20 draws or so to lead the first two pitches as one. A long sling or two are nice for the last belay.

Per Monty: A 70m rope is required to rappel from the top of the route to the anchor in the middle of the slab on

Playin Hooky

. Watch the ends! It is possible to rap the route with a single 60m if you tram in and use intermediate anchors