We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Stabat Mater

FA Pierre Deliage and Nicholas Richard
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a classic and historic pitch. Bolted by two visiting Frenchmen in 1988 (and flashed by Scott Franklin the following year), this was the NRG's first 8a.

Start right at a low roof, and climb engaging face sequences until trending left by way of a large flake (keep going left for Coal Train 5.14a). Standing up on a jug and moving back right at the fourth bolt is the frustratingly devious technical crux (standing on the eyebolt here makes this climb an ultra classic 5.12c A0, seriously!). After the crux you've got 9 or 10 more bolts of engaging 5.12 climbing.

Location

Round the corner from Thunder Buttress, and stop beneath the most brilliant marble-white face you've seen, just left of a wide corner and an overhanging cave.

Protection

14 HUGE eyebolts, no anchor.