Chimney Sweep

This route follows "the center of the face above the snow tongue, just to the left of the prominent central rib.... Climb up the stiff snow slope up the central couloir, then scramble 300 feet up a series of terraces at the base of the face to reach the center crack. The route is broad and may be varied for the first six leads (low fifth class). The fourth lead is the quartz pitch, done partly up crystal holds in a vertical pegmatite. Above this point, the route leads back into the center crack to a shaky belay stance below a large overhang about halfway up the face. The 40 foot crux pitch passes the overhang on the right on unpleasant slabs, a ledge trending upwards then reaches a seam in the granite... used to traverse the slab back to the left. Fifteen feet of ticklish work leads to the main crack and a solid belay. Four easy to moderate leads above to go to the top of the face and can be done two ways: the outermost is less rotten but harder. Then a fifteen minute scramble along a hairline ridge leads to the summit" (Walter W, Fricke Jr.'s

A Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountain National Park Area

).

On the East face of Mt. Alice, this route starts at the snow tongue and continues to the left of the central rib.

Trad gear - a light alpine rack.