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Peak Mountain 3

Old Faithful

FA Sean Hebner and Brooks Gunderson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great off-width splitter that runs up the headwall between Copperhead and Snake Alley. Not really in the basement, but very close. There is an anchor at the top of the pillar, but belaying from it would lead to some heinous rope drag. Build an anchor with some wide gear near the top and belay from there. Top out on the pillar and do either a series of rappels or downclimb the back side of the pillar and out the canyon Copperhead. It is also possible to rappel back down the face to the base of the climb, but the rope drag was difficult, and a 60m may not be long enough. There are a lot of features to grab on the route, so it's a pretty good intro to off-width. The features are pretty delicate, so the belayer might want to break out a helmet for this one.

Location

From the basement, walk west past Dingos ate my Baby until you get to a large headwall. The line is the obvious splitter that runs up the middle. You will pass the exit canyon for the climb about 50' before the base of the route. The climb is also accessible by going straight in the wash on the approach rather than turning left for the main climbing area. Once you get to the wall at the end of the wash, the climb is on the left.

Protection

Doubles from #3-5 C4s. A 6 is useful as well as 3.5s and 4.5s. Belay on a ledge right before the top. a 3, 4 and 5 worked well. 60m rope for rapping off the back, 70m might be necessary for rapping off the face.


Routes in The Basement