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Peak Mountain 3

Guillotine

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Description

Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.

Location

When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)

Protection

Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.


Routes in Otter Cliffs


  1. 52
    Guillotine
    5.10a/b
    Tr · Trad