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Peak Mountain 3

Shangrila

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Description

Betty Barnett, Lance Bischoff onsight. Main picture of "Kindergarten Rock" (Grey Rock/Cathedral) follow the topmost red (summit) line straight down the ridge to left of deep dark chimney. This is the route. Start at the large twin trees half way up and begin in the "waterfall" or find one of two crack systems up to next ledge system. Staying just right of the main descent (trough) puts you on a nicely exposed ridge route with 5.5-5.6 moves all the way to summit. Some sections go steep/vertical, and rope line is critical due to rough edges and narrow troughs. Great view, more interesting than standard ascent (5.0-5.4 at most) and offers lead placements on windy exposure. For warmup, there is also a 5.7-5.8 "Mini-Martian" wall left of the trees easily toproped and about 40 feet high.

Recommended! Fun! And a real lead as opposed to short rope cruise up the standard route. Small pro won't help much, you'll want stoppers, and generous use of runners to string the rope from the ridge (work either side for pro). Enjoy the view, you'll have lots of air around you!

Protection

Rack enhanced with numerous runners to flake rope line off ridge, horns, flakes and longer ones for anchoring will work fine. Some pockets, and numerous cracks for stoppers/cams.