King Me

Quintessential Red River Gorge sport climbing! Pumpy, sustained, pockets, sidepulls, this route has it all! From ground, leap to gain the overhanging start using pockets (jugs?) and generous edges. Moving up, you'll begin to feel the pump set in, but keep yourself together for thin technical moves to undercling (crux) and clip. Finish on slab to anchors.

(Cherish and savor every rest. Plenty of hardmen, not used to the Red's steepness and endurance demands, have humbly succumbed.)

The approach trail meets the wall at No Return (handcrack in black rock). Go right, pass-by The Underling (obvious recessed rockhouse with roof and hole at rear/right), and two bolted sport routes. King Me is the next bolted line and begins on the outward face/lip of an 8ft roof of sorts. Leap, or use a stepping stone to gain the route.

10 bolts. Anchors. Use at least a 60m rope.