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Triple Exposure
Description
From the main parking lot, the North End Towers rise directly above. Triple Exposure splits the main tower's north face, mostly just left of center. Scramble up the first 30-40 feet to the beginning of a bolt ladder. Don't clip all of them if freeing it, it will cause way too much rope drag. This pitch goes at 5.11d. The thin crack of the second pitch goes at 5.12c/d. The third pitch traverses left, then up through the small, muddy chimney if aiding on bolts/drilled pins. If freeing the third pitch, follow the dihedral (5.10d) straight up, then traverse left (5.11b) when it ends. From here, you can either make an anchor or run it to the summit. Go up a few bolts, then traverse right (5.11c), then climb up through the prominent notch to the summit anchor. Two double-rope rappels land you on the ground.
Protection
Done as a purely aid route, it goes clean clipping many bolts/drilled pins, plus a #1 Tricam placement on the first pitch and several small nuts/RPs on the second. It can be done free with the drilled pins, no pro necessary. When aiding, run the first two pitches together, ending at the top of the obvious thin crack at a good 4-point anchor. When freeing, divide the route into 3, possibly 4 pitches. There are enough drilled pins to make an anchor at several places on the upper part of the route, or run it right to the top.
Routes in North Face / North End
- 2Triple Exposure5.12c/dTrad · Aid