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Peak Mountain 3

Bacon and Ergs

FA Alec Sharp, 1981(?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the most obvious Route at Physical crag, as you can easily see it for 1/2 mile away. It's big, it's wide, it overhangs like crazy for the first half. Approach Physical crag's upper-right-hand tier and stand below the yawning crack. Go up it. The climb is not what it appears to be, so approach it with no prejudices. OW & squeeze technique will be useful, but not necessary for a sucsessful ascent of this bizare line. I give this 4 stars due to the wild and unique nature of the route, which I can't say too much about without spoiling the adventure of it.

Protection

Either top rope it with some swing potential- maybe into a pine tree, or TR on stoppers and medium cams + a long cord.

Or go buy some OW pro. Big Bros protect the first 20' which are much larger than an (old style) #5 Camalot (the new #6 is also too small). As well, you can lasso a few chockstones with 4' slings if so desired. 2' slings won't be long enough. After pulling through the top of the bulge, the size is more manageable and the grade much easier. It takes a standard set of cams to finish.