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Peak Mountain 3

Catt and Moose

FA Matt Carpenter and Thomas Loftis June 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

If you've hiked up to climb Speed of Life and want to tack on another pitch or 3, this makes an excellent addition.

Begin in an acute corner right of Codex under a roof.

Climb through the roof using great jams and contorted body position. This is the best, hardest, and best protected pitch of the climb. (5.11) (an escape right is easily accomplished from here)

Climb the left facing corner to a ledge (5.10), then move right and climb a seam to another good ledge (5.8R. I might go add a bolt later).

Climb the exposed arete on the right side to the top of the buttress (5.8R. I might add a bolt here too).

We did a short rappel to join Speed of Life. Walk off left is another option.

Location

Start in an acute corner under a hand crack roof, to the right Codex.

Protection

Gear to 2" optional #4 for the last pitch.