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Description
Pitch #1: From the corner ledge, climb directly up the edge(arete). Initially, some dirty (but easy) grass hummock 3rd class scrambling leads to a bolt and steepening terrain. Follow the arete past a few more bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 55m.
Pitch #2: Hop along the crest to the spectacular summit ridge of the tower passing two bolts to the final two-bolt belay. Improbable position and beautiful views. Sign in the tower top register and spray away. 5.5, 30m.
Location
After following the red dot trail for about 30 minutes, the hiker will arrive at an obvious and unique flat stone platform campsite. From here, Pharaoh's Hat is just to the west. Easy bushwhacking a short distance will bring you to the ledge system that wraps around back to the north side. Continue on this ramp to the base of the NE Ridge. The climb starts at the corner.
From the tower top, rappel 30m to the top of Pitch #1 and then rap straight down again 30m to another belay station. The 3rd single rope rappel will bring you to the same ledge system where you may rejoin the base of the climb.
Protection
QDs, shoulder runners, moderate set of Nuts and Camalots.