January Playmate

This climb starts off as a really nice crack climb, from fists to tight hands. The crack leans to the left avoiding a roof, after which you can traverse right and finish up on rotten rock. A better option is to traverse left across the slab below the huge roof and join the crux for

Self Abuse

. With the use of slings this could all be done in one pitch without too much rope drag, and if it wasn't for a small section of bad rock, this would probably be one of the better pitches of crack climbing in Eldorado.

This route is in the dihedral just uphill from the bolted route

Heart of Gold

and just downhill of the obvious roof of

Self Abuse

.

A standard rack with a #4 Camalot, if combining with

Self Abuse

, bring doubles in #2 and #3 sized Camalots.