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Peak Mountain 3

Twinkie

FA unknown
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Description

I believe the crux is getting off the ground. The block where you start is very slightly overhanging and is weirdly sheared and smooth, although covered in small features. I found I couldn't get up it - no good footholds and precious few handholds (crimps).

I wound up going further left and climbing up a 5 foot, rectangular block that was sticking out of the main block and going straight up from there.

I find it hard to believe this is really a 5.6, which is the grade given in Boston Rocks.

Location

I found this route in Boston Rocks 2nd ed., p. 107. There are no details except for a sketch. If you believe the sketch, you start this route at the left of Snacktime Crag. Find the large block about 10 feet below a 6-inch wide horizontal crack. Go up the middle of the block, cross the crack, then keep going straight up to top out.

Protection

Top rope. Trees that are about 15-20 feet back from the edge can be used as anchors.


Routes in Snacktime Crag