Excalibur

Originally claimed to be 5.11b, but very doubtful, more like 5.12.

Beta according to Guide book:

Pitch 1: Start in splitter crack to cave belay (70').

Pitch 2: Climb roof crack (20').

Pitch 3: Climb wild arete on bolts (30').

My beta:

Pitch 1: Start on easy slab that works into a dirty thin crack with shrubs that you must climb through. Once past the shrubs, it's clean climbing on thin fingers up the left side into the cave. Instead of making a gear anchor here, keeping going twenty more feet past the roof with moderate rope drag to a chain anchor.(90')

Pitch 2: Climb sporty arete (30').

Rap two times with a 60m rope.

Take the faint trail through the shrubbery until you are clearly below the massive roof.

2x Thin fingers to 0.75 BD.

1x BD #3 (optional, but protects start of roof very well).

Several extendable draws