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Peak Mountain 3

The Astraphobia Treatment

FA DCuster & SRuff, July 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

We think this climb is better than

Holdless Horror

or

Bulldozier

, Tuolumne Meadows climbs of similar difficulty and length. That said, the climbing is of a different character—more alpine and the feldspar crystal knobs of Dozier Dome are replaced by high quality, orange-patinated, fine-grained granitic features.

P1 Climb the crack/chimney system to a (the 2nd) ledge system that offers branching left. 170’.

P2 & P3. 300 more feet to the summit. For rope drag purposes, probably best to continue up the right angling crack system that is now hand-crack sized; continue as the crack heads up and right across the south face and into a short trough behind a triangular pinnacle; belay at/near the far end of the trough; 100’. Then up the south face/southeast arete to the summit; 200’

From the top, follow the ridge (exposed 2nd class) 400’ until it is possible to descend sand/talus/slabs back to the base, either to the east or the west.

Location

At the right side of the south face, start at the base of the wide crack system that slants up and right, ending at a triangular pinnacle.

Protection

gear to #6 camalot; extras in the 1-3” range if you like extras