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Peak Mountain 3

Banana Split

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Description

Pitch 1: Pull through the thin cracks in the prow at the base of the wall (5.8). Follow incipient cracks (including some horizontals) up the slabby face to a 2-bolt anchor (old SMC hangers).

Pitch 2: Head up the obvious crack. (Beware poison ivy at the base.) Where the crack splits (both cracks go right, but one is almost horizontal), follow the more vertical crack up to the top. The first crux is right where the crack splits; the second crux is still to come. Both are about 5.8. There is a 3-bolt anchor at the top.

Variation: Follow the horizontal crack at the split. (5.6) Lots of rope drag!

Location

Begin at the base of a small prow with a thin crack.

Rappel the route with two ropes or a 70m. Bring webbing for the anchors.

The first rappel is at least 35m.

Protection

Standard Rack. Bolted anchors (with old bolts) that can be backed up with pro.