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Peak Mountain 3

Spineless

FA unknown
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Description

A brilliant, steep endurance climb with a no-hands rest at the midway point. Scramble up the blocky corner to the high first bolt. Now you'll make fun, gymnastic moves to jugs, then one V3 move before the rest. Milk that rest, then make a 5.11 traverse around the corner and bear down for 3 bolts of steep 5.12 climbing. After the crux, the holds get much better, but the roof gets steeper. The chains are just over the lip of the roof.

Location

Starts in the somewhat chossy, blocky corner on the right side of Main Wall. Look for the obvious dihedral that starts at 1/3 height, just right of Russian Arête.

Protection

Permadraws, chains with lower-off biners on top. All the permadraws on this route have new dogbones and steel biners as of July 2015. As with all permadraw-equipped routes, you should still check the biners for grooving as you climb!