Mystic Mile

Mystic Mile is a good climb on good clean rock, with a few hard moves low down on the first pitch, and another hard move on pitch two, with a lot of somewhat easier nice slab climbing in between.

Mystic Mile starts from "Ledge Two" at a small tree growing at the base of the wall, 15 feet left of the rap anchor for Into the Mystic. This anchor is at eye level as you walk along Ledge Two. The start is 20 feet right of the first big tree on Ledge Two. 100 feet up the wall above this tree is a prominent double tree. Ledge Two is reached by following the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to its end where it scrambles steeply up to the left end of Ledge Two, a long ledge with several large trees.

Pitch 1 (10c, 10 bolts, 100 feet): Climb past a roof near the ground on its right side. Step left then undercling right and up (good cam for extra pro) to a ceiling. Reach over the ceiling to big holds, clip, and pull over with a gymnastic move that is harder than it looks, given the great hand holds. This was the crux for me. The climbing below is also pretty hard. Climb a slab left of a small dirty corner to the anchor at a good stance. The double tree is now directly left.

Pitch 2 (9+, 7 bolts, 90 feet): Continue up the slab left of a large, left-facing corner, then move right into the corner. Place optional gear, move onto the arête and reach over the roof to clip a bolt. It looks hard to clear the roof, but it's only above 5.9 via a surprising move. Continue to the top past 3 more bolts staying left of some dirty thin cracks.

Although you could rap to the ground with two ropes, due to the low-angle rock, it's safer to do two one-rope rappels.

This route is probably easier than 10c by trad standards (10a?). I self-belayed this and was pretty solid, which is not the case when I lead 10c trad in Eldo.

Pitch 1 (100'): 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Pitch 2 (90'): 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Optional: Single set of cams from green Alien to #2 Friend.