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Peak Mountain 3

Year of the Dragon

FA Brian Shon, Robert Flaugher & Tom Weaver - June 3, 2000
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Work up and slightly left over shallow, broken ledges clipping 3 bolts along the way. Face climb past 2 bolts to a stance on small holds. Clip the last bolt then climb up to its right to "good" handholds. Make a couple of committing moves (crux) to get up to the coldshut anchors.

Crux Beta: The crux can be passed with a mantle maneuver or by face climbing extremely thin holds to the left of the mantle hold.

Location

The climb is on the N side of the Ridgeline formation on the other side of the tower opposite Glowing in the Distance. The base of the climb is accessed by climbing the tower on the SE side via Eye of the Dragon (5.5 R, no pro "airy-scary" move) or climbing the NW side via Dragon's Head (5.5 R, exposed but can be protected) and rapelling down off the anchors on top. Alternatively one can hike back around the top of Ridgeline and descend the slope next to the back wall. Start at a short broken up crack and left facing dihedral to the right of a 20 ft high block topped by a small, distressed pine.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 coldshuts

There are 2 bolt anchors with hangers on the top of the formation from which one can set up a rappel. However, there are no chains or slings on the anchors.