Original Bandito

The original route on Kachina Woman ascends the obvious corner system on the northeast aspect. This is the easiest way to the top of this formation, and probably one of the easiest spire climbs in all of Sedona. The FA team (legendary Coats bros) could have gotten away calling it 5.7+, but for some reason they gave it 5.10- R. Go figure.

First-time climbers may notice two options for the start. I would 10/10 recommend the left-hand start, but for those curious, here are the options:

Left-hand start: Start by walking over to and then surmounting the semi-detached block on the east side of the spire. Clip a fixed piton before traversing right to the base of the corner. About 5.7.

Right-hand start: Boulder up out of the main cave and bust a few dicey slab moves (with groundfall potential) until reaching a single bolt. Traverse left to the base of the corner. Something like 5.9+ R.

The dihedral has pretty variable rock quality. The crux is a short sequence of moves in the steepest part of the corner. Lotsa features, lotsa pro. Above the crux, continue up chunky stuff to a platform below the summit block and climb the obvious wavy crack to the top.

Rappel the north side of the spire with one 60m rope.

Marked on google maps as Boynton Canyon Vortex, the area immediately surrounding Kachina Woman is a popular day-hiking destination. Park at Boynton Canyon trailhead and follow the main trail for 5 minutes until the Vista Trail turnoff on the right-hand side. This well-worn path cuts east, keeping below the spire on the south side, before switchbacking a short distance to the south saddle. Contour around the west side of the spire to access the north saddle, where Original Bandito begins. Total: 15-20 minutes

Single rack to 3"

extra .75 usefulSingle 60m rope