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Peak Mountain 3

Deflator-Mouse

FA Diana Rogers & Harald Harb, October 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start about 20 feet to the right of

Freeway

on the left side of a large, slightly-detached block. Pull up onto the top of the block. The crux is to get from this stance over the bulge until you are established in the dihedral. Stem up to another stance below the small arete, place some pro, reach up onto the face left of the arete to clip a bolt, then choose your path to the top: swing left onto the face for an easier out, stay right in the dihedral for a little more work. There's an easy stance to reach the two-bolt anchor.

Rap from here, or hop up on the large, sunny ledge and take

Upper Freeway

to its bolted anchor (gear required).

Richard Wright has also TR'd the left-wall crack/arete variation just after the crux. That version would use the three bolts we added but would need more and/or different gear. It's quite a bit harder than the stem version.

Location

This is twenty feet right of

Freeway

. Follow cairns up to the base of

Freeway

from Mill Creek Rd. Deflator-Mouse starts on the right end of the same, waist-high ledge as the large, right-facing dihedral of

Freeway

.

Protection

Three bolts, two near the lower crux, one below the anchors. Two-bolt anchor with rap rings. You'll need a small assortment of thin to finger to hand-size cams.

If you are concerned about on-sighting at this grade, we recommend stick clipping the second bolt. Make sure you clip that draw before you try to get over the bulge.