Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Fear and Loathing is yet another classic test piece of the Web.

The finger journey this route presents to the climber is as much a test of finger strength as it is a trial of trust. You begin immediately to the let of Mr. Rogers' on an unlikely broken wall that is protected by a couple small pieces. Boulder the first 8 feet of the route to gain a rest out right: Milk this!

Step back left and onto the face. Step up and into the otherworldly finger crack. Crank up this for about 20 to 25 feet of sustained, and cruxy, climbing trying not to think about how damn secure these jams REALLY are (there are some great, but small, feet peppered intermittently along the left wall). Slap your hands onto a large jug and rest again before finishing up the steep upper headwall on juggy 5.10 climbing.

The route ends on a spacious ledge at a shared bolt anchor with Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood.

Just to the left of Mr. Rogers' is the unmistakable crack.

Carry a good selection of small gear (doubles are recommended) and a few medium pieces up to a red Camalot size.