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Peak Mountain 3

Southeast Corner

FA Joe Olonia, Frank White, late 1960s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

For an easy 1-pitch climb in the Sandias, the SE Corner (SE Ridge) has it all: great exposure, fun moves, and a wonderful summit. (Seriously. I can't think of many individual pitches 5.7 or under in the Sandias that are as good as this one.)From the west side of the Cake and Candle, climb up to the notch between the two towers. The Candle is to your left. Start on the Candle by hand traversing to its right-hand edge. Follow the crack system on the exposed arete, passing 2 pitons. There are a couple of loose blocks to be careful with. A slightly overhanging bit near the top could be near the crux.  Mantel-ing around there may be a little hard for the grade and hard to do with dignity; otherwise, a couple gym-climging-ish moves work well. Easy from there to the tiny summit. Downclimb the last 10' to the rappel anchor.Rappel down the south face from a slung block (90').

Protection

Standard rack to 3" or 4".


Routes in The Candle


  1. 1
    Southeast Corner
    5.7
    Trad