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Peak Mountain 3

The Emperor's March

FA G. Kirchhoff, A. Mollard, May 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Every year

Emperor

penguins overcome great obstacles in order to return to their breeding grounds. The march of the penguins is an arduous, dangerous, and difficult battle to maintain survival and continue life. While this route does not end at a penguin brothel, lets hope the trip to the top is nowhere near as perilous?

A deceptive route that climbs

The Penguin's

proud east-face. Steeper than it looks, this line follows the dead-center path of least resistance. Described as "difficult to read", curiosity will be most beneficial, as will balance and fitness. Expect steep face climbing with hidden pockets and edges.

Start in the obvious wide crack and climb to a shallow ledge, clip a bolt and prepare for the funk. Lean left of the right-side arete and mantle a sloping shelf. Continue straight up the face following the bolt line. Plenty of holds exist, but finding them seems to be the crux.

Location

Found on the direct, east face of

The Penguin

. This is the only line w/ black bolts.

Protection

Quick draws to a sling anchor. Optional #5 Camalot for the crack at the start.


Routes in The Penguin


  1. 3
    The Emperor's March
    5.11-
    Sport