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Peak Mountain 3

Aerial Dogfight

FA Evan Wisheropp w/ Trevor Hemming
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wicked technical climbing up a steep and very 3D wall. The route has three cruxes with a good rest between each. It's hard to grade this route, the moves are extremely technical so it feels 5.13 when you first get on it, but starts to feel almost like 5.12b once you've refined and memorized every move into submission. Be patient unlocking this route and it will reward greatly!

Crux 1: Climb an obtuse dihedral; chimney to wicked drop knees. Crux 2: Pull past a jug and get into an ass jam (flexing your right butt cheek on the last jug) to clip the fifth bolt. A wild double gaston campus move sets you up to get your feet up high to pull into an undercling rail. From here, you can muscle up, or move right to a ledge and do a few relaxing stemming moves with your back to the wall. Crux 3: Sloping/overhanging hand traverse 9' protected by a fatty 1/2" bolt with fixed draw. Chain anchor with lower off biners.

Location

The tall, south face of the Spire.

Protection

8 bolts, the last two are permadraws. Lower off biners