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Description
Chimney moves start this climb with the crux down low. A foot pocket on the left makes it easy to get started, but continuing up enough to get the jug out on the left while placing pro deep in the crack is interesting. Once you get up on the small ledge to the left and over the big chockstone, you are pretty much done. you can keep scrambling up, but if you want to set up a top rope for people to flail on, i suggest doing it early to avoid rope drag. I used one of the bolts to the left as one of my pieces, and made a suspended trad anchor in the gully above the chockstone.
I had a tough time with this lead, because I'm 6'6" and I have too many legs for a chimney this size, but it was an interesting challenge.
Location
Just to the right of grotto one. Obvious chimney with a chockstone 15' up.
Protection
Gear to 3"