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Peak Mountain 3

Southwest Face Left

FA Nate Brown and Matt Meinzer May 5-7 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

80% 5.9. Serious and loose but fun. Good rock with loose stuff around. 26 bolts placed on route: thirteen for anchors and thirteen for lead bolts. All stainless hardware drilled on the lead. We climbed and equipped the first half of the route on day one, went hot springing and red necking on day two. Day three we re-climbed the lower half and pushed the route to the summit in an 11 hour go from car to summit. Walk-off in climbing shoes was not fun. No rap anchor at summit. Rappelling after pitch 5 would be difficult.

Location

Go up wash under south face through some 4th and 5th class slabs. Route ascends right side of large formation that ends at huge ledge at half height.

Protection

Double set cams to 1BD 1-2BD 1-3BD few pins including beaks is a good idea