Guano Roof

Start the climb from the west end of the blocky shelf near the west end of the large roof system. The route moves out a hand crack that splits the roof on this west end of the roof system. It is visibly identified by a triangular prow that makes up the east side of the crack, and the copius smears of bat guano that coat the shelf immediately underneath the roof. Work up to the base of the roof, via easy, but un-protected climbing. Rope drag can be a major problem after passing the roof, so I placed a cam in the back of the crack, with a 3' sling, then placed another cam nearly at the lip with a 2' sling. This seemed to help out significantly. After dogdging the quano, much grunting and puffing puts you over the roof (after turning the lip, a big crystal helps immeasurably) past a fixed piece (whoever placed this had more hang-time than I do)and onto lower angle, yet surprisingly tricky climbing. Footwork is key through this section (as are small cams and nuts), then over a smaller roof, and on to the 2-bolt belay. Excellent fun on the roof, and consistent, attention-getting climbing throughout. Three more feet of roof and I'd give it three stars.

Cams to 3", one full set of stoppers.