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MapDescription
The Crux move is moving from under the roof up into the chimney. Make a few hand jams in the crack to gain footing on the face as you move up and left into the chimney. From there it is a good face climb but if needed at the bottom you can do some chimney moves. Keep an eye out for some great side pulls on the face of the front wall.
Location
The start is in the crack under the roof to the right. There hooks on top of the route but before you Rap off you might want to consider setting a Top rope on the same anchor for the Face route Chardoney Champagne 5.9 just to the right.
Protection
Seven Bolts with two open cold shuts on top.
Routes in The Cattle Pocket
- 10Split - Split 85.8Sport