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Peak Mountain 3

Fuzz

FA Goldstein and Fox, 1994
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is the obvious left-facing corner up and right of approach trail's intersection with the rock. This is 50M right of Way Rambo and just right and facing the popular warm-up, Rochambeau.Climbinto the awkward slot and then up and right to enter the corner. Climb up good jamming at a low angle with some nice ledges for rest here and there. Use these ledges for a complete de-pump to avoid enduro fatigue at the finish. Continue climbing, placing widening gear on the upper section, with good undercling hand-jams. Finish on 3" cams under the right-leaning crack/flake to grab the finishing holds and get into the finger slots to clip the anchors from. Great finish to a great climb. A 70M rope is required to lower off or TR this line.

Protection

The bottom is an awkward slot that is not well protected. A 1.5" cam in a 'soft' horizontal protects a move 4 meters up that enters the main corner system and gets you to good pro. Get a spot.After that, the route is mostly 1.5"-3", heavy on the 3" pro, incluing at the pumpy crux up top.

Use a 70M rope to get all the way down.