Butt Crack

Great jams the whole way but plenty of other things to grab onto if you dont like to get your hands dirty. After the crack pinches shut, your difficulties are behind you. You can stop at a ledge at the top of the "cheeks" or keep going for another 30 feet of 5th class along the blocky arete to the top of the formation where there are better anchor options.

The middle of the long eastern-most wall, look for the full moon.

Protection is a pretty good idea. The yawning fissure eats hand to fist size pieces. Plenty of smaller cracks and a couple large blocks to sling at the top of the formation for an anchor.

Walk off to the North.