Nexus

Over a decade ago when there was only one sport climb at the pit and it was all over grown I walked the cliff line and immediately fell in love with this feature. When the RCA secured the land I went there right away to get after this thing and found Ward had put an anchor above the climb. I respectfully backed down and put up some other stuff but kept my eye on it until Ward graciously gave me the okay to get after it.

Figuring out the movement was so exciting as every section felt both challenging and playful. Kneebars, partial inversion, crazy core tension and a very interesting exit on to a slab, there is so much substance in this little climb. I had the feeling it would be spectacular and I was not let down. I would give it 4 stars if it was a little longer.

Start on a giant jug, use some trickery to gain a crimp and a decent hold. Kneebar out right (you will likely want a pad). Use the knee bar to get to the roof and in to a pocket, move right under the roof with difficulty and considerable core tension. At the lip you get very good holds and it seems like it souldn't be so hard but gravity is high as you attempt to surmount the slab above and scamper to the anchor.

youtube.com/watch?v=6HM85xZ…

In the middle of the Buffalo Pit there is a cave with 2 short routes. This is the left one that climbs the roof. 

6 bolts to ram horn anchors.