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Peak Mountain 3

Fingerin' it Out

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Description

Climb starts up a short, low-angle fingercrack lie-back up and left to a small ~1ft roof. Pull around the roof and trend up and right along the very thin crack using the crack and face features, place some pro out right with a long sling extension (#1 camalot is great) and then head out onto the face up and left, aiming for the obvious splitter fingercrack. Pinch a cool patina dish and hit two bomber fingerlocks, then up through the cryptic but short crux sequence with tips locks, lie-backing and high feet. A bomber purple C3 placement protects the crux well, otherwise it will be a decent runout (hence the PG-13 rating) and quite a ride if you blow the crux up high. Once you pulled through the crux, relax and enjoy a splitter fingercrack that takes a variety of gear to the chains for the cherry on top.

Location

The climb is the main obvious splitter going up a pillar of rock sticking out from the wall a bit in the flat fern area before North Dome. The top of the climb can be seen well from the road at the Y-shaped Black Oak Tree.

Protection

2 bolt anchor, gear for the climb. Standard rack up to #1 camalot, with extra small stuff (fingers and smaller) and maybe a few small offset nuts. A black (000) C3 is nice for a short move before you reach the bomber fingerlocks. A purple C3 is a must if you want to avoid the long runout above the crux.


Routes in Fern Wall Crag