- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a great route that goes up a clean face covered in awesome patina crimps. Shares the last pitch of Tail Tucker and Tail Tucker Arete.
P1 (5.10c): Scramble up to the bolted belay perched on a big, detached block. Off the belay, go up and right, heading towards the roof. Pull some pumpy moves past the roof (the bolt hanger that protects this is currently spinning, I wasn't able to tighten it with my hand) and continue up the crack feature to a bolted anchor on a small ledge. (80 ft)
P2 (5.11b): The crux pitch. Start off the belay with some easier but techy climbing, up to where the wall steepens a bit for the sustained, crimpy crux. The wall slabs out again for a couple bolts and leads to a hanging belay beneath the third pitch. (80 ft)
P3 (5.10b): Easier climbing on nice, featured rock. The pitch ends on a small but comfy ledge with a bolted anchor. (70 ft)
P4 (5.10c/d): The final pitch to the summit, shared with Tail Tucker and Tail Tucker Arete. This pitch has a funky crux down low in a layback corner, then some easier ground to a roof. Pull around left and go up more easy terrain to a second roof. Pull the roof with some cool moves and follow the exposed face/arete for a couple more bolts to the anchors. Easy scramble to top out. (120 ft)
Location
It's kind of sketchy to get to the first belay. Scramble downhill through the grassy gully to the left of lunch rock, passing the first pitch of Tail Tucker. Scramble up the face to get to the big detached block, and do a bit of chimneying to get on top and set up belay.
Protection
Bring 14 draws. Bolted anchors.
Routes in Left Wall
- 13The Shining Slab5.11bSport