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Peak Mountain 3

The Golden Eel

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Description

Start up some blocks that feel solid enough until you get established in a wide pod at the base of the golden panel. The crux follows, consisting of steep laybacks on positive, patina edges at the lip of the crack. Catch your breath at the obvious hand jam pod where the angle lessens, and psyche up for the final thin and technical corner to the top.

The gear on this is tricky, and the moss doesn't help. I cleaned it out the best I could... it is totally safe in its current state, but it's no Donner Summit. Full disclosure, I sussed the gear on TR (while cleaning) before the send, and might suggest that if you feel uncertain. This would be a proud onsite at the grade.

If this has already been sent (wouldn't be surprised), let me know the name and grade and I'd be happy to change it. I'm giving 4 stars for its stellar movement and position, in spite of some grit and its shorter length... though it probably deserves more like 3.5.

Location

The splitter crack through the golden headwall on the far right side of the east cliff. Starts up a sloping ramp into some solid blocks.

Protection

single rack to 2'' (3''optional) offset cams/ nuts helpful. Many options for gear anchor at top.


Routes in East Cliff


  1. 1
    The Golden Eel
    5.11a
    Trad