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Peak Mountain 3

Redwings

FA A. Livingston, P. Kingsbury
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Redwings is the corner and roof system just right of "Pussy Mind Trick". Begin up the route by clipping the first 2 bolts of PMT and then step right for a short but easy runout to some good gear. Creative stemming and arete climbing takes you passed a bolt and another piece of gear. Moderate terrain takes you to a stance below the massive stembox/roof feature protected by 2 bolts. Spread those legs wide or do a full body bridge and start moving up the stem box. Exit left on surprising holds with some bizarre beta. Change corners, keep your cool and get a tricky to place (but bomber) cam in the roof. Keep it together thru the challenging, tight stemming flare up above passing 2 more bolts.

It is strongly recommended for the leader to wear a helmet, Pat took an upside down lead fall during the foot-over-your-head move at the crux and hit his head on the wall after falling close to 15 feet. His helmet likely kept him out of the hospital. This route does have some bolts but we did our best to maintain the "trad flavor" of the line so expect some spice. Established on lead after a quick TR inspection of the bottom half.

Location

Just right of Pussy Mind Tricks.

Protection

Single rack .3-3.0 black diamond, 7 bolts.


Routes in Trundler’s Buttress