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Description
This is a stunning line up the steepest, central section of the Pagoda Tower. Rock quality, position, and movement give this route all the stars you need. Don't be surprised if you get a few honks and gawkers on this nearly roadside crag.
Start with 3 bolts of face climbing with a tricky move before the mantel onto the ledge. The first crux is right off the ledge with slopers, crimps, and compression to reach a slopey hole. After the slopey hole, continuous and pumpy underclings lead to a final, desperate stab to a cool, pinchy jug at the lip.
Clipping the 2nd bolt off the ledge can be tricky. Shorter climbers have rodeo-clipped this bolt off the ledge. It is best to climb
Power Pagoda
first and set the draws on Golden Pagoda on your way down.
Location
This route is located on the Pagoda Tower. From the parking, walk along the river until you pass
La-Z-Boy
. Turn uphill here, and follow the edge of a scree slope to the base of the route. A short 5th class downclimb leads to the belay ledge. If in doubt, get a belay down to the ledge.
Protection
8 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.