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Peak Mountain 3

Route 13

FA Rick Smith?
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Description

This is "13. Unknown" in the Jemez Rock.  It, and the climb to its left, Vestal Virgin, are definitely worth the extra effort required to get to them. These are among the longest routes at White Rock and climb more like the smooth Diablo rock than most of White Rock.

This one (the right line) is a techy, near-vertical face.  You can make some use of the arete, especially near the top.  A distinct crux around the 6th bolt is a pretty neat sequence, but expect it to be pretty tricky throughout.

Would benefit from more traffic, some flakes and small pieces crumbling but no big deal.

I didn't find it to be quite as hard as the 12c rating its given in the book, but I've posted here as 12c rather than sandbag you people or diminish my climbing partner's send.

Location

Right-most climb at Sewer Crag.  It's on the next buttress to the right of the loose eroded gully to the right of the rest of Sewer Crag.  

Crossing the gully from the main part of Sewer Crag to get here is non-trivial.  It's very loose, and you'll need to drop down a bit from the cliff base.  It sucks, but it's doable.  Be careful.  Still, I think this is the best option if you want to do more than these 2 climbs.

If you're only climbing this and Vestal Virgin, the best approach would be to rap in.  (We were unable to find the anchors from above but didn't look very hard.)

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor w/ chains (book says 8, but I'm pretty sure it was 10 bolts). The anchor is set back from the top of the climb, long slings or a cordelette are nice to have.