Judas

Despite only getting one star in the Watts guidebook, this route has the potential to be a gorge classic. It typically is on the dirty side due to a lack of climbing, however, those willing to venture up will find a nice finger crack leading to a short stem box capped with hand jams on quality rock. Unique and varied crack climbing make this a fun route, though perhaps best left for those solid at the grade.

The Watts guide erroneously shows the route coming in from the left, under a roof. When you get there you will see that the face is blank out left but the starting double cracks in the guide book description are directly below the crack up high. There are currently two small bushes in the crack, these did not pose much of a problem for us.

Standard gorge rack from fingers to hands.