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Peak Mountain 3

Silent Partner

FA Bingham / Goodwin '85
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Varied and interesting, with crack cruxes at the top and the bottom and some slab excitement in between.

The most salient feature of The Office is a left facing corner that extends from the ground to about two thirds height of the cliff. About 20M to the right of this is an obvious crack/roof/bombay flare 4M above the ground. The roof turns into a left facing corner/flake.

Climb up a couple of moves and place #3-#4 Camalot size gear in the bombay. Traverse left 3' to an obvious edge then do a cool mantle/undercling sequence to get stood up on the edge. Layback up the flake until you hit easier ground and a bolt. Continue up typical COR knobby slab face to another bolt, harder & scary if under ~5'9" tall. Follow a seam/crack (#1 Camalot) up to an alcove below a clean, vertical or steeper 1/8" crack. The crack which takes good nuts is the crux and again is harder if you can't reach a critical fingerlock with your foot on a large knob. Continue another 7M of easier ground to bolted anchors from which a single 60M rope will get you back to the ground with a few feet to spare.

Protection

Mainly thin, #1 Rock to #1 Camalot, with a couple of big pieces for the start. A couple of long slings are helpful.